Description
Practical value and everyday use
Stens New Oil Seal 055-608 for Kohler 25 032 06-S, Black is listed in Seals. For a practical buying decision, start with this source-backed point: **Verify part fits before purchasing** Specs: Description: Oil Seal Replaces OEM Numbers: Kohler: 25 032 06-S, 52 032 08-S Compatible With/Replacement For: Kohler: CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620 and CH640.
The source also records: Application note: 045 kilograms **Verify part fits before purchasing** Specs: Description: Oil Seal Replaces OEM Numbers: Kohler: 25 032 06-S, 52 032 08-S Compatible With/Replacement For: Kohler: CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620 and CH640. Use this additional stated detail to judge day-to-day usefulness and package value: Package Weight : 0.045 kilograms.
Value-focused decision
Compare those stated features and included items with the current on-page offer and the exact quantity needed. No performance claim is added beyond the source product record.
Complete source-backed product details
**Verify part fits before purchasing**
Specs:
Description: Oil Seal
Replaces OEM Numbers:
Kohler: 25 032 06-S, 52 032 08-S
Compatible With/Replacement For:
Kohler: CH18, CH20, CH22, CH23, CH25, CH620 and CH640
Source product highlights
About this item
- The package length is 0.127 centimeters
- The package height is 13.716 centimeters
- The package width is 5.842 centimeters
- Package Weight : 0.045 kilograms
SAM Jr. –
Easy to install, no more oil leak. I’m glad It was as simple as it was and it wasn’t necessary to open up the engine in order to fix the problem.
Greg wolford –
All was good. Correct size and easy to find.
John Underwood –
Fit perfectly, Added engine assembly lube to protect until it gets broken in.
Jethro –
Way overpriced
Brad Boyd –
Perfect seal for my Kawasaki SP23. Use a piece of PVC or a block of wood for install. Fixed a problem that would have cost hundreds to fix at my local shop.
William R. –
Very good manufacturer and OEM parts are the only way to go .
Customer –
Perfect fit, no leaks…. Life is Good
RadiologyKen –
My tractor was leaking oil but the heads were clean. So I googled the symptom and I kept seeing people mentioning the main seal. I’m a weekend mechanic and I figured if I can’t fix it, I’d pony up the money for a new tractor. I ordered this and watched several videos on how to change. Seems straight forward and it was*. My issue with the whole change came with the hole in the frame on the videos. I tried for a LONG time to get this sucker out without having to take the engine off. In the end I did. As a word of caution, I put a screw into the seal and even though I drained all the oil, more came out. One it stopped (I left it to drain overnight) I felt comfortable turning the tractor on it’s side. I supported the engine and took off the 4 bolts. Once it was free of the frame, swapping the seal was much easier. I didn’t want to go this route, but it worked. 2 screws on opposite ends of the OLD seal and I worked it out. MAKE SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE SHAFT OR THE OIL WILL LEAK THROUGH THE NEW SEAL AND THE PIT YOU CREATED ON THE SHAFT. New seal goes in but the suggestion I have is to get a small PVC pipe from the store (I think it’s 2 1/4) and use that to tap the seal in place. It will evenly distribute the taps of the hammer. I used some gasket maker around the OUTER edges of the seal to provide extra seal. CLEAN the opening before putting the seal on.
Tomstew6 –
Got the product good time it works great
David Pirdavid –
Good product works good
Paul Gagné –
Good